The process is the same - strip - prep - prime.  I chose to use Lacquer paint on this project.  I had a terrible experience getting the primer to stick to the fiberglass.  I would prime the part, sand it down and put it away.  When I returned to the part (after a period of three or more weeks) I found crazing and in too many cases the primer actually lifting off and peeling back.  I would sand down the primer, scuff the glass and re-prime the part only to have the experience repeat itself.  After trying everything else, I located and purchased old stock PPG Acrylic Lacquer Primer.  This product performed like I was use to.  Although I like the ability to work Lacquer in the polishing process, I'm afraid current Lacquers fall dramatically short of the Lacquer of old.  Thank you EPA !!!!  

Painting the car only forms the pallet for a great job.  You will get a decent gloss out of the gun, but nothing like you get once you've sanded and polished the color coat.  The longer you can let the paint dry the better.  I will first sand it with 1200 then 2000 wet-or-dry paper. 

 To know when you've sanded enough - rinse the area - sponge it dry - look at the glare on the surface.  If you see any glossy spots (measle spots) - you haven't gone deep enough.  A properly sanded surface will have a consistent matt finish under any light.

  Once polished, the  gloss will come alive.  I use a double sided 12" lambs wool pad on an air buffer.  I like the speed control it offers.  3M buffing compound is a good product.  Keep your pad dry and scuffed.  The polish gives you the shine, but the sanding gives you the mirror effect.